Perros-Guirec
The day was beginning to dawn when he disembarked at Lannion. He ran the whole way to the coach bound for Perros-Guirec. He was the only traveller. Raoul questioned the coachman, who knew the previouse evening a young woman who looked like a Parisian had taken a coach to Perros and was staying at the inn of the Setting Sun.
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Perros-Guirec is a town in the Dept 22 of Côtes D’Armor located in a small remote fishing port in northern coast of Brittany. Artists , writers, musicians were all drawn here. Father Daaé had a small chateau in Perros and loved the ocean. Which is why he was buried in this location because it reminded him of home in Swedan. Especially the color of the sea. He would often take a young Christine down to the beach and play his violin.
(~ref Bradshaw's Hand-book to Brittany, and Guide to Its Megalithic Monuments at Carnac and Elsewhere....By J. W. C. Hughes, M.A. 1897)
(~ref Bradshaw's Hand-book to Brittany, and Guide to Its Megalithic Monuments at Carnac and Elsewhere....By J. W. C. Hughes, M.A. 1897)
Traditional clothing and the Red Scarf
It's possible Christine was wearing some sort of red head scarf customary of the Brittany style or some variation veiw picture bellow. We know that Christine is Swedish and would have been accustomed to wearing such head covering. The type of headdress worn in the region of Brittany is called the Penn Sardin headdress. Another version is called the coiffe du Cap Sizun/Headdress of Cape Sizun.
A Place steeped in Fairy Tales and Music
"According to sociologist Max Weber (1947), the modern world became increasingly “disen- chanted” as belief in the magical and sacred re- ceded to its margins."
(ref The Spectacle of Piety on the Brittany Coast by Maura Coughlin) |
Perrors-Guirec is said to have gotten its name from the old Breton King Guerec or Erech. It's a place known for romantic legends and is the land where King Arthur held court. Many peasants still believe the Island of Agalong (Avalon) lies there off the coats of Perros. The Bretons were somewhat superstitious and have little taste for modern life, they still hold beliefs in fairies and ghosts, for among the Bretons there is widespread belief in the existence of the living dead. The Korrigans are a small fairy or dwarf like creatures from Breton folklore. They sometimes speak of Korrigans as doomed human souls, unhappily trapped through tragic death to wander the earth. "Poulpikans also known as the Korrigans which name means "small-dwarf" are small fairy or dwarf like creatures from Breton folklore and are said to live around the rocks, rivers, wells and fountains. Korrigans like to dance around fountains. Korrigans are especially malicious towards celibate Catholic priests.
As a people they love storytelling and are fond of old traditional stories, taking every opportunity to tell them.
ref Encyclopedia of Celtic Mythology and Folklore by Patricia Monaghan, Dictionary of Celtic Mythology by Dr. James MacKillop
As a people they love storytelling and are fond of old traditional stories, taking every opportunity to tell them.
ref Encyclopedia of Celtic Mythology and Folklore by Patricia Monaghan, Dictionary of Celtic Mythology by Dr. James MacKillop
Notre-Dame de La Clarté
Notre-Dame de La Clarté or Our Lady of La Clarté, is one of the most visited places in all of Brittany. La Clarté is the patron saint of sailors and her 17th century spire was used as a landmark for ships. The a wall surrounding the adjoining cemetery has been classified as a historical monument.
Le "pardon" de Notre-Dame of la Clarté en Perros-Guirec
In the 15th century the chapel and the establishment Notre-Dame de la Clarté was built. A religious ceremony which had a re insurgence of popularity in 1848, called the "pardon" which takes place every year at Pentecost, is mentioned in "The Enchanted Violin" chapter as the time when Father Daaé and Christine would leave Valériuses for 8 days. From the 15th century on wards, the Breton nobility built churches and pilgrims would gather in crowds to obtain forgiveness for their sins. It was a time of religious penance and not a simple feast of Mary. Traditionally, "pardon" would begins on August 14 at around 9 p.m., in the chapel, with a prayer vigil, hymns were sung, readings, sermons, and sometimes mimed scenes are mixed together. This was the time that the faiful could have contact with the "pardonneur" or forgiver directly which was either a local bishop or a guest one. When the ceremony ends the crowd goes in procession, caring crosses, statues and banners, saying 'Ave Maria' on the way to the mound where, after reading a passage from the gospel, which is discussed during the preaching, it ends with the rector's thanks to the 'pardonneur', the blessing of the children and the traditional Breton song "Kantig ar Bugel d'ar Werc'hez" or Hyme of the Child to the Virgin. The "pardonneur" goes to the middle of the plateau to set fire to a heap gorse (a yellow flowered shurb), arranged in a cone. This is the "tantad" or bombfire is the equivalent of the fire of St. John's Day, very much appreciated by the crowd on beautiful summer nights. After this some of the faithful return to the chapel in procession after singing the Salve Regina to attend the vigil mass. On August 15 is the most solemn moment of the pardon of Notre-Dame de la Clarté, the Episcopal Mass. All the priests of the region are invited to celebrate it around the "pardonneur" bishop. The ceremony begins with a procession from the chapel to a podium set up on the mound overlooking the sea. Each parish carries the statue of its patron saint, dressed in the traditional Breton clothing, black clothes for the married women and the white for the young girls., preceded or followed by banners. Then the statue of Notre-Dame de la Clarté is crowned and the procession of priests and the officiant closes the procession.
Pilgrims would come for the wonders provided by the shrines of the saints. Prayer and votives were offered to obtain relief from burdens of spiritual or physical health. From Rheumatism, inflammation of the eye ear aches to deformities all come looking for a cure and find it. Ironnically a traditional custom is for young girls to put a pin in the nose of the statue of saint guirec. If the pin stayed stuck it is a good omen of marriage. The original wooden statue is in trouble due to this custom and has recked it's nose. It's been replaced with a statue made from granite.
(~ref Bradshaw's Hand-book to Brittany, and Guide to Its Megalithic Monuments at Carnac and Elsewhere....By J. W. C. Hughes, M.A. 1897)
(~ref Bradshaw's Hand-book to Brittany, and Guide to Its Megalithic Monuments at Carnac and Elsewhere....By J. W. C. Hughes, M.A. 1897)
"La Dérobée"
and other traditional Breton dances
“Dérobées” is the Breton dance originating in Italy was brought by the armies of Napoleon. The dance first started showing up in 1820 at the "pardons" and other festivals and gained popularity. It was interupted by the revolutionary period and then in 1848 the festival celebrated it's first weekend in September with a "Pardon"and followed by a country ball. La Dérobée de Guingamp which is best know at the Saint-Loup festival in Guingamp and was a very popular dance in the 19th century throughout the region. It took place every year at the beginning of September. The dance is perfomed in pairs, which form a procession, dancers in pairs stand right hand in right hand, left hand in left hand, forming an X in the middle. By moonlight Men with embroidered jackets, waistcoats and chenille dance the “Ann hini goz” and “Dérobée” and other national dances are performed by thousands of couples at a time to the music of the biniou or bagpipes and a little drum called a bombarde. The Bretons love music and song and “Ann hini goz” is their favorite song.
Listen to “Dérobées”
Saint-Loup Festival Committee City of Guingamp
Suites of “DÉROBÉES” Recorded by MUNICIPAL MUSIC under the direction of Maitre Louis FOURNIER (ref link https://musikebreizh.wordpress.com/la-derobee-presentation)
Saint-Loup Festival Committee City of Guingamp
Suites of “DÉROBÉES” Recorded by MUNICIPAL MUSIC under the direction of Maitre Louis FOURNIER (ref link https://musikebreizh.wordpress.com/la-derobee-presentation)
Trestraou Beach and the Red Scarf
It was at an inlet called Trestraou where Christine lost her red scarf in the sea. Which is near the Casino.
The Church and Graveyard
Saint-Jacques, where Father Daáe is buried
There is only one Church with a graveyard at the time, Saint-Jacques church and it's the main church in the city. Located Place de l'Église, 22700 Perros-Guirec the graveyard was later moved to a larger one as you can see in more modern photos the small graveyard is now gone from the site.
Broton's ossuaries or a container room in which bones of the dead are placed and is an huge part of Brittany's religious heritage. Although widespread in Europe between the 15th and 18th centuries, nowhere else did they systematically take such monumental form and stay in use for so long. A western European tradition was to bury the body in a grave allow it to sit for several years till the body was sufficiently decomposed. Then they would exhume the skeletal remains. The bones would be then cleaned, dried and sorted according to size and type. Skulls, small bones and longer bones, before being placed in an ossuary where they were stored together in stacked groups. Some churches chose to create niches set within or against the churchyard walls. During the last century most ossuaries were cleared out of their bones, but there is some who have remained.
Broton's ossuaries or a container room in which bones of the dead are placed and is an huge part of Brittany's religious heritage. Although widespread in Europe between the 15th and 18th centuries, nowhere else did they systematically take such monumental form and stay in use for so long. A western European tradition was to bury the body in a grave allow it to sit for several years till the body was sufficiently decomposed. Then they would exhume the skeletal remains. The bones would be then cleaned, dried and sorted according to size and type. Skulls, small bones and longer bones, before being placed in an ossuary where they were stored together in stacked groups. Some churches chose to create niches set within or against the churchyard walls. During the last century most ossuaries were cleared out of their bones, but there is some who have remained.
Bretons did not fear death. "Nowhere else, and at no period, have people lived in such familiarity with death. The consciousness of the presence of the dead never leaves the people. The evening of a wedding is like a funeral wake. The betrothed meet at the graves of their dead to seal their vows over the tombs." - (A Book of Britanny by Rev. S Baring-Gould) . It was said the veil thinned between the living and the dead on Christmas Eve, the night of Saint John’s Day (Midsummer) and the night of All Saints’ Day. Brittany was said to be the most haunted region in all of France, from it's bleek moors, windwept coastlines and empty uncultivated land.
The Breton servant of death was called Ankou and he guided the souls of the dead to the Netherworld. He is also sometimes seen on the inside of churches in western Brittany. Ankou is portrayed as a skeletal figure, who is sometimes draped in a shrouds, holding an arrow, spear very rarely a scythe. He is sometimes fallowed by a screeching owl and is sometimes attended by one or more assistants. Someone close to you would soon die if you were to hear the squeak of Ankou’s chariot. Ankou was said to steer a black boat, in coastal areas.
"The Ankou is the henchman of Death (oberour ar maro) and he is also known as the grave yard watcher, they said that he protects the graveyard and the souls around it for some unknown reason and he collects the lost souls on his land. The last dead of the year, in each parish, becomes the Ankou of his parish for all of the following year. When there has been, in a year, more deaths than usual, one says about the Ankou" - (War ma fé, heman zo eun Anko drouk/On my faith, this one is a nasty Ankou.")
It is said the dead the second on the list of the deceased of a parish guides the Ankou’s skinny black horse its bridlet. He appears as a man or skeleton wearing a cloak. In the 19th century Ankou instead of being draped in a shroud was often shown dressed contempory while hiding his face under a black felt hat with a wide brim which was also a popular style worn in Brittany then. Somtimes donned in a black cloak and black felt hat. Sometimes he is described as just a shadow. Ankou is said to drive a large, black coach pulled by four black horses and accompanied by two ghostly figures on foot.
The Breton servant of death was called Ankou and he guided the souls of the dead to the Netherworld. He is also sometimes seen on the inside of churches in western Brittany. Ankou is portrayed as a skeletal figure, who is sometimes draped in a shrouds, holding an arrow, spear very rarely a scythe. He is sometimes fallowed by a screeching owl and is sometimes attended by one or more assistants. Someone close to you would soon die if you were to hear the squeak of Ankou’s chariot. Ankou was said to steer a black boat, in coastal areas.
"The Ankou is the henchman of Death (oberour ar maro) and he is also known as the grave yard watcher, they said that he protects the graveyard and the souls around it for some unknown reason and he collects the lost souls on his land. The last dead of the year, in each parish, becomes the Ankou of his parish for all of the following year. When there has been, in a year, more deaths than usual, one says about the Ankou" - (War ma fé, heman zo eun Anko drouk/On my faith, this one is a nasty Ankou.")
It is said the dead the second on the list of the deceased of a parish guides the Ankou’s skinny black horse its bridlet. He appears as a man or skeleton wearing a cloak. In the 19th century Ankou instead of being draped in a shroud was often shown dressed contempory while hiding his face under a black felt hat with a wide brim which was also a popular style worn in Brittany then. Somtimes donned in a black cloak and black felt hat. Sometimes he is described as just a shadow. Ankou is said to drive a large, black coach pulled by four black horses and accompanied by two ghostly figures on foot.
The Inn of the Setting Sun
Raoul questioned the coachman, who knew the previouse evening a young woman who looked like a Parisian had taken a coach to Perros and was staying at the inn of the Setting Sun.
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The French reads l’auberge du Soleil-Couchant/ The Inn of the Setting Sun. Aubergeinn can mean 'inn, hostel, lodge and accommodation'.
Au Soleil Breton
Located Kervengard 29550 Saint Nic, 300 m from Pentrez beach. rooms are for rent like a hotel as well as rented like small appointment.
Au Soleil Couchant
There is the Au Soleil Couchant/ In the Setting Sun located on 1 Rue Alexandre Dumas, 14360 Trouville-sur-Mer, built in 1870 by Charles-Joseph Pigeon inventor of the Pigeon lamp, a non-exploding gasoline lamp. You can rent out rooms like in a hotel. You must indicate your arrival time at the property in advance. Payment varies by size of room. Located on Trouville Beach, and offers sea views. I did find one more mention of in a travel guid as well as a magazine for the region of 'l’auberge du Soleil-Couchant' in Bretagne which is the Brittany region of France where Perros-Guirec is located. But when I tried to find more info, such as when it was built, I came up with none.
Other Possiblities
Alors, elle est descendue à l’auberge du Soleil-Couchant. Dame! Il n’y en a pas d’autre. Et puis, on y est très bien. Il se rappelle que, dans le temps, on y racontait de belles histoires !
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So, she went down to the Inn of the Setting Sun. Lady! There is no other, Besides, we were always fine there. He remember that, in the old days, they used to tell great stories there!
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So the Inn they stayed at as children was the only one inn in Perros-Guirec. One of the oldest inn in Perros-Guirec is l'auberge de la Diligence which was a stagecoach inn in the 18th century.
le Grand Hôtel is the oldest hotel establishment in the seaside resort of Perros-Guirec.
The Train to Perros
In 1881 it became easier to get to Perros-Guirec from Paris thanks to the extension of the railroad. With the Lannion-Perros line, more and more upper class vacationers began going to Perros and it became a a place for well-to-do Parisian families and renowned writers and painters. The train Raoul and Christine would have taken to Perros-Guirec